Survival Gardening 11, nuclear war, emergency preparedness
it’s going to be next to impossible to produce ALL your fertilizer and soil amendments ON THE FARM or homestead. While I do NOT claim to be an “organic gardener”, most of these soil improvement techniques are similar to those used in organic gardening. As a rule, we do NOT use pesticides on our VEGETABLES. We have been forced to use them on our fruit trees before to SAVE TREES. So understand that just because we don’t do everything “organic” doesn’t mean we slather DDT on the ground everywhere …
13 Responses to “Survival Gardening 11, nuclear war, emergency preparedness”
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Vegetable Growing Month-by-month: The Down-to-earth Guide That Takes You Through the Vegetable Year
Hey!
Thank you very much for a very informative video. I have taken notes. As I would imagine, in a crisis, I will not be able to view this video, so I am set for now. Off to store to get some Lime as well. Thanks for a very helpful video.
Correct, you just don’t want to eat meat too close to the bones- if possible. Post nuclear if it’s a question of potentially getting cancer sometime in the future or starving IMMEDIATELY, I think the choice will be clear to most folks. Thanks for watching!
Strontium 90 = Calcium to plants. I’m spreading lime every 2 years. 20 inches under the topsoil, I’ve got lime out the wahzoo. Good job. (Animals take calcium/strontium 90 into bone/milk. Meat is fine in a nuclear ‘pinch.”
Adding Lime can reduce the soils acidic level. Also, if the soil is acidic, use less phosphorus – which is the middle number in commercial fertilizers.
wooohoooooooooooo!
I’ve read that maple leaves will cause the soil to be more acidic…
Will be doing this in #12. Ran out of time and video space! I’ve heard the same conflicting info re: lime. I would just be careful with it as it dries out skin, so I would assume it would harm young plants. My advice would be to apply a good bit before planting. That being said, I did plant some oats right into that new plot after the lime was disced in there with no problems though.Thanks for watching!
Can you go over the soil test report in depth? Don’t they go over specific amounts (lbs/acre) of lime, fertilizer, admendments to apply? I’ve also heard conflicting info about when to apply lime. Most often I’ve heard you apply it approx 6 months before you plant, other sources say apply it when you plant.
tnx
How much lime would one add to bring to about neutral from acidic or 4-5, such as yours? Although it appears our ground between two lakes is good soil, it is likely acidic from the pine tree needles. Is it po9ssible to buy a test kit to monitor over the years? Thank you.
Listen to this man.
When the soil is resting, or fallow, till in any weeds before they go to seed. This will add nutrients into the soil. You can also till in fresh manure to a fallow site, and it will age in the ground. You may want to stock up on fava bean seeds, which can be used for a cover crop which is tilled under as a natural fertilizer. Additionally, fava beans are very tasty and can be grown as a food crop if you don’t need the cover crop.
It’s important to let the ground lay every so often. A “sabbath” for the land essentially. I don’t know if doing that INCREASES fertility but it definitely can’t hurt. Also, rotation of crops will help a good bit. We’ll cover more of this soon.
I had read that if you leave the ground fallow for about four years, the nutrient content of the soil will increase naturally. So you could have five plots big enough for your needs and just rotate through them each year if fertilizer wasn’t available or too expensive. Or perhaps that’s not true? What do you think?